THE GOD SHU IS WORKING HIS CULINARY MAGIC

Eating Out
February 1
By Darryl Greer

Walking shoes

Shu has confidently occupied part of one of the few remaining Victorian terraces on the main drag of Belfast's Lisburn Road for over seven years. But on the list of 'most talked about' restaurants it somehow seems to get over-shadowed - perhaps it's time to look again.

House slippers

I think the Lisburn Road is in a right old state - and not in a good way. It's allegedly the most stylish part of the city if you're in the know. Certainly lots of bars, exclusive (that seems to mean 'expensive') boutiques and restaurants would bear this particular allegation out.

A drive or walk along its 'cool strip' makes you realise that it is all a bit bland - a recidivist trail of ridiculously out of place buildings, many of which appear to have been dropped from a giant baby's toy box, is scattered among some gems of Belfast's past. One of these original buildings is home to Shu (the ancient Egyptian god of atmosphere - did you really want and/or need to know?) a populist temple of contemporary style with food ensconced in a converted Victorian terrace. And very well done it is too: from outside it has the original Victorian facade but inside is a modern, sophisticated dining room in sympathy with it. The street level dining room was one of the first examples of the kitchen becoming part of the dining experience and Shu still looks fresh and up to date seven and bit years on. Downstairs on the basement level is more club-like, casual bar/restaurant and upstairs is a private dining room. It's the main restaurant we're visiting this evening and the expansive room is busy. It seems the god Shu is indeed working his magic.

Loafers or slip-ons

The menu at Shu, like it's interiors, is equally sophisticated: familiar sounding ingredients mingle with the odd exotic culinary term or varietals descriptor to sound as such. Look through this however and the menu extols many interesting choices. There is a la carte or, as is our selection, a set price menu to choose from: so it's smoked haddock and salmon fishcake with tartare sauce and; duck confit with spiced butternut squash puree as a start off. A fabulous chunky tartare sauce delivering contrasting textures and flavours accompanies plump, crisply coated fish laden cake; while crackling-skinned duck has sweet communion with the silky squash puree. The succeeding roast corn fed chicken with mushroom tagliatelle and spinach is a success itself as is dinky rolls of pork belly complete with painterly sweep of cauliflower puree, richly creamy potato gratin and swollen cider soaked raisins - someone is thinking about flavours, textures and combinations of both here, and putting them together to produce food that not only tastes good but offers up a surprise when least expected (love those raisins).

The technique and passionate execution in evidence here is also reflected in the presentation: each plate is delicately arranged and looks every bit as good as it tastes. Good job.

Practical footwear

There isn't much wrong with Shu: it has good service, better food and a great looking stage from which to present it all. Better yet (on a Thursday at least, other days too I presume but check to be sure) it does all of this for a paltry £19.50 for two excellent courses. Shu also mostly avoids bee-tee-nineanism - a geographically and demographically limited condition which includes symptoms of comic superiority and bogus celebrity - by being consistently good at what it does: namely keeping customers happily fed: again and again and again. Perhaps it is the very fact that Shu doesn't shout about how genuinely superior it is that should point the way to good taste in a mire of faddishness.

The cost

Food and drink £50.75

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