SHU GOOD TO BE TRUE

Sunday Life
September 18
By Audrey Watson

Ever wondered what it feels like to be a judge on Masterchef?

No? Then get along to the excellent Shu restaurant on Belfast’s Lisburn Road at lunchtime and taste some of the dishes available from one of their lunchtime menus.

Myself and three colleagues arrived for an impromptu visit one Friday and were pleasantly surprised to discover a ‘business lunch’ menu (Mon to Sat, noon to 2.30pm) alongside a more extensive ‘Shu Express’ lunchtime bill of fare.

With one course for £7, two for £10 and three for £13, the business lunch is surprisingly good value option and puts one of Belfast’s top end restaurants (Shu was named ‘Best Restaurant in Ulster by Food & Wine magazine in 2006) within financial reach of everyone from business big shots to people on a budget.

Three of us decided to mix and match starters, choosing soup of the day (leek and potato with blue Cashel cheese), foie gras and chicken liver parfait with pear and ginger chutney both from Shu Express and goat’s cheese, beetroot and organic leaves from the Business Lunch. All got the thumbs-up for quality and quantity.

The wine list was varied in both choice and price. Not being of the same moneyed status as ‘ladies who lunch’ we chose a bottle from the lower price range – Goldridge Estate Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc – which turned out to be deliciously fruity and smooth.

For mains, our choices were penne pasta with basil pesto, rocket, olives and semi dried tomatoes, wild hake with chorizo, new potatoes, broccoli and gremolata and crispy pork belly, cauliflower puree, potato gratin and cider-soaked raisins – all from the Express menu.

And when our dishes arrived, the Masterchef comparisons began – plates were passed round, flavours praised everyone wanted to try everyone wanted to try everyone else’s dish and not one of the four of us could decide on a winner. It was all superb.

The pasta was well-flavoured without being overpowered by the pesto sauce and there was plenty of Parmesan shavings, olives and sun-dried tomatoes.

Pork belly can often be very fatty, but this was cooked to perfection and the potato gratin was served as a perfect little cake and after initially treated with suspicion, the cider-soaked raisins were declared a perfect accompaniment along with the drizzling of delicious cauliflower puree.

The wild hake was also delicious and the chorizo was the real McCoy – not the rubber, more fat than meat roll, we’ve become so used to.

The portions were substantial, so sides were unnecessary, but available if you wanted and the chef deserved a medal especially for agreeing to go slightly ‘off menu’ for the fussiest member of our party and suggesting a combination of two dishes (poached salmon and a dressing-free salad) to keep her happy.

We couldn’t resist dessert so pear and pecan tart with cinnamon ice cream, crème brulee and Champagne rhubarb and a selection of ice cream were the choices.

The crème brulee was the biggest I’ve ever seen (think flying saucer) and the ice cream was also a hit, but it was the pear and pecan tart that won this round.

While not being exactly stuffed with pears or pecans, it was a warm and spongey delight. So comforting, it was the dessert version of slipping under a continental quilt.

As well as the ‘master’ chef, special credit must also go to our lovely waitress and maitre ‘d (whose choice of a ‘surprise’ combination of ice cream went down a treat) for ensuring that we enjoyed every bite and every minute of our lunch hour, and that we will be back for more.

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