Georgina Campbell’s Ireland, The Best of the Best

A smartly painted Victorian frontage and traditional arched windows provide a vivid contrast to the stainless steel efficiency of the bar and de rigeur ‘on view’ kitchen of this fashionable restaurant. After a courteous welcome, guests are led into a large L-shape room which is light and airy with shiny metal softened by terracotta pillars and discreet covers. This is a smoothly run operation, with many regulars of all age groups. Head chef Brain McCann presents admirably simple menus based on carefully sourced ingredients, and offering a combination of a classical and brasserie fare that is complemented by restaurant manager Julian Henry’s marshalling of a tip top waiting staff. An outstanding bread selection will ease you through the menu stage, and may well be a highlight of the meal.

Menus – á la carte, and a set dinner menu that is good value at £17.50 – are well balanced, allowing equally for the adventurous and more conservative diner. The ubiquitous salt & chilli squid (surely Belfast’s favourite starter) makes its mandatory appearance, for example, but is well cooked and presented (and makes a beautiful light lunch dish), while a delicious well-flavoured vegetarian penne pasta with tomatoes, fennel and rocket is one of the number of dishes offered as starters or main course portions. Dry aged sirloin will be a treat for those who cannot envisage a meal without steak but, judging by the success of a perfectly cooked and flavoursome dish of hake with white bean purée, ragôut of beans and mushrooms and pea and truffle velouté, fish may be an equally good choice. Upbeat classical desserts to finish, or cheese (not necessary Irish farmhouse) with classy crackers. Cooking, on a recent visit, seemed to be better than previously – and together with great atmosphere, efficient service and good value for money this adds up to a restaurant that is always busy.

If cocktails and tapas are your thing, head for the basement. Not suitable for children after 8pm. Seats 80 (private room 24). L Mon-Sat, 12-2.30, D Mon-Sat 6-10 2 course menu £17.50 otherwise á la carte (average main course £14), also vegetarian menu. House wines £13.50; s.c. discretionary (10% on parties of 6+). Closed Sun, 24-26 Dec. Amex, MasterCard, Visa, Switch. Directions: Half mile south on Lisburn Road.

Back